Hiking – Page 2 – The Destinators

Forillon National Park

The Gaspe Peninsula is that long, thin blob of Quebec that extends along the southern shore of the St Lawrence River, to the north and east of Maine. This is funny – I knew it was on the St Lawrence, yet never noticed the south side of this peninsula before. The south side is along the Baie des Chaleurs (Bay of Warmth). I was surprised by the many similarities to the Cape Breton peninsula, though this makes sense given that the same geological events formed them both and both subsequently received similar shaping from the glaciers. The east side of Cape Breton/south side of Gaspe have a gentle slope to the sea/bay/ocean while the west/north sides are seemingly endless series of sharp cliffs plunging into the river/sea/gulf. And both have Parcs Canada national parks spanning the width of the peninsula. The road along the south side of Gaspe is dominated by beachy resort towns while the road along the St Lawrence passes through what appear to be mostly fishing towns with a few tourist offerings. There’s a 70-km/40-mi stretch where the road is sort of cantilevered into the St Lawrence at the base of the cliffs. The views are amazing! And as a bonus for the one who’s not driving (thanks Doug!), there are happy seals to be spotted sunning themselves on rocks all along the road.

Cape Breton Highlands National Park

The Cape Breton Highlands comprise a tall, slightly rounded, mountainous plateau on the northeastern end of Nova Scotia. It was formed by the same collision of continents that created the unique mountains in Gros Morne National Park as well as the Appalachian Mountains, back in the really old days. Although not insanely tall at the highest point on White Hill (533 metres/1750 feet), the plateau drops dramatically from the edges – about 350 metres/1150 feet – to the ocean below.

Argentia, NL

Our ferry (yes, they keep getting bigger…)

With the joy of our stay in Bonavista fresh in our hearts, the realization that our ferry reservations would take us away from Newfoundland in just a few days meant we needed to head toward the ferry dock in Argentia. We wanted to arrive there a few days early to take care of a few road necessities like long hot showers, laundry, cleaning the waste tanks, washing the rig, paying bills, updating the blog, why not another round of long hot showers, yadayada. We’d just head on over and maybe see a few sights along the way. We even agreed to a no photo rule, so we wouldn’t have to spend time sorting and processing – just do the drive and take it all in as it came. Yeah right…

Bonavista Peninsula

The Bonavista Peninsula contains some of the oldest settlements on the island of Newfoundland. Though definitive proof has been elusive, Italian explorer Giovanni Caboto (aka John Cabot, while he was sailing for the king of England) is reported to have landed at Cape Bonavista in 1497, claiming this part of the New World for his sponsor. (Fortunately, we have better records of our own travels, and definitive proof of our visit in 2023 will also be presented here, though we’re claiming nothing.)

Terra Nova National Park

Terra Nova National Park is situated on the northeast coast of Newfoundland. It encompasses 238 km/150 miles of shoreline, all of it within a north to south span of 45 km/30 miles and within 5 km/3 miles of the coast. It comprises islands, sounds, points, fjords, bogs, headlands, inlets, forests, ponds, fingers (of land), arms (of water), tickles (look it up), and straits. The park’s PR people share our penchant for superlatives… Brochures boast that Terra Nova is Canada’s easternmost National Park (yes, we’ve been to Pacific Rim National Park) and Newfoundland’s oldest, established in 1957 (Gros Morne was established in 1970). As with all National Parks, Terra Nova manages access to the beautiful parklands and its primary mission is conserving and restoring ecological integrity.

If Gros Morne is about the rocks, Terra Nova is about balancing the health of the forest that supports the critters that eat the lichen that grows on the rocks, the rocks down in the valley-o (oops, Newfoundland music…).

The Road to the Isles

Newfoundland and Labrador covers a pretty large area. If the province were a state in the US it would be the 4th largest, after Alaska, California and Texas based on landmass. (Based on population, it would be the 2nd smallest, right in between Vermont and Wyoming…). Similar to Alaska, it’s a big space up north with very few roads. What that means is that people touring Newfoundland in RVs often find themselves moving around in cohorts based on which of the 3 ferries they took and when they arrived, and we just keep running into each other over and over again.

As we chatted with people in our northwest Newfoundland cohort (because that’s where we arrived on July 7), they all mentioned plans to visit Fogo Island and Twillingate. Those 2 places were on our list, as well. As we crossed paths and chatted with travelers in other cohorts, heading in the reverse direction, they all said you’ve got to see Fogo Island and Twillingate. Newfoundland and Labrador Route 340, known as the Road to the Isles, heads north from Gander – and so did we.

Gros Morne National Park

National parks in Canada are established to manage wild and natural spaces, and balance access for visitors to appreciate and enjoy while protecting and conserving their unique ecological offerings. We’ve come to especially appreciate them as beautiful places to learn more about nature and indulge in one of our favorite activities – hiking. Gros Morne checks all the boxes and more. Much more. Its global geological significance is mind blowing.

The Great Northern Peninsula

The ferry dropped us off in St Barbe, about two thirds of the way up Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula. It was late in the day and we decided to camp in nearby Flower’s Cove and head north in the morning.

Blanc-Sablon, QC

We are not keen on reservations, as a general rule. Reservations force us to arrive somewhere at a certain day or time – what if we find something interesting along the way there!?! So, even though we didn’t make reservations on the ferry making the crossing from Blanc-Sablon, QC (2 km/1.2 miles from the Labrador border) to St Barbe, Newfoundland, finding that there was no room for another RV on the day we arrived planning to cross was not a cause for distress. To the contrary, yay! We have an extra day to explore this tiny corner of Quebec.

Labrador 510 – Trans-Labrador Highway, part 2

The road to connect the settlements and resources of western and coastal Labrador – the Trans-Labrador Highway – had been in the works since the early 80’s. Dirt roads and walking trails between settlements were widened into gravel roads in sections, then paved as demand and budgets allowed. The last remaining section of gravel was paved in July, 2022 – and the road was complete!